By making sunscreen a regular part of your daily skin-care regimen, you may be able to curb the negative effects of sun exposure, including burns, blisters, and even skin cancer. That said, not all sunscreens are created equal. There are two main types, chemical and mineral, and both have their pros and cons.
Chemical and mineral sunscreens shield your skin from the harmful effects of the sun’s UV rays in very different ways.
“Mineral sunscreen ingredients, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, are small particles that sit on the skin’s surface and physically prevent UV rays from penetrating the skin,” says Jennifer L. MacGregor, MD, a dermatologist at UnionDerm in New York City. You can also apply mineral sunscreens on top of other skin-care products.
Chemical sunscreens, on the other hand, allow UV light into the skin. Once the light is absorbed into the skin, the chemicals in the sunscreen (such as oxybenzone, avobenzone, octisalate, octocrylene, homosalate, and octinoxate) create a chemical reaction in which UV light is converted to heat, and the heat dissipates from the skin, says Lauren Ploch, MD, a dermatologist in Augusta, Georgia.
The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA), which regulates sunscreen products, hasn’t labeled either type of sunscreen unsafe. However, the administration has proposed a rule to update regulatory requirements for sunscreen products sold in the United States.
As part of this proposed rule, the FDA has called for additional safety information on some of the active ingredients commonly found in chemical sunscreens, including oxybenzone, avobenzone, octisalate, octocrylene, homosalate, and octinoxate.Avobenzone, oxybenzone, octocrylene, homosalate, octisalate, and octinoxate are known to be absorbed into the bloodstream at levels greater than 0.5 nanograms per milliliter (ng/mL), the amount at which the FDA requires topical medications to undergo safety studies to determine possible toxic effects. While these results don’t necessarily indicate that such chemical sunscreens are unsafe, more research is needed.
At this point, the known health risks of sun exposure outweigh the potential risk of absorbing sunscreen chemicals.
With that said, the Environmental Working Group recommends avoiding chemical sunscreens containing oxybenzone because of concerns that this ingredient may cause allergic skin reactions. It may also disrupt hormones, but this particular risk is only established in animal-based studies thus far.Dr. MacGregor also warns against using chemical sunscreens when swimming in the ocean because common chemical sunscreen ingredients such as oxybenzone have the potential to bleach and damage coral reefs. While research is ongoing, some tourist destinations, including Hawaii, have banned the use of oxybenzone sunscreen in an effort to reduce potential damage. Meanwhile, scientists are continually exploring sunscreen toxicity, and even mineral sunscreen options aren’t 100 percent reef safe due to the potential effects of additives, coatings, and nano-sized mineral particles used in various formulations.
Both chemical and mineral sunscreens have their benefits and drawbacks.
The Pros of Chemical Sunscreen
Chemical sunscreens are quick and easy to apply, and, unlike mineral sunscreens, they don’t leave a white film on the skin. And while it depends on the individual sunscreen and specific formulation, chemical sunscreens often perform better statistically on consumer tests that assess how long they protect the skin from UV rays, says Dr. Ploch.
The Cons of Chemical Sunscreen
Chemical sunscreens may cause skin or eye reactions in certain people. Ploch says chemical sunscreens can cause allergic reactions in people with sensitive skin and may not protect as well against melasma and rosacea as mineral-based options. Melasma is a common skin condition that results in brown patches on the face, forearms, and neck, while rosacea results in red patches and small pimples on the cheeks, nose, and forehead.
The Pros of Mineral Sunscreen
The two most common ingredients in mineral sunscreens, titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, are the only sunscreen ingredients generally recognized as safe and effective by the FDA. “[Mineral sunscreens] are much safer for people who are concerned about long-term exposure to chemical ingredients,” says Ploch. “I tell my patients that mineral sunscreens are like a healthy, home-cooked meal, [while] chemical sunscreens are like the fast food of sunscreens.”
Mineral sunscreens are also ideal for children, people with sensitive skin, and people with melasma. “The heat dissipation of chemical sunscreens can exacerbate melasma,” says Ploch.
And unlike chemical sunscreens, which typically take 20 to 30 minutes to absorb into the skin, mineral sunscreens offer immediate protection. Mineral sunscreens can also be applied on top of makeup and other skin care products.
The Cons of Mineral Sunscreen
Historically, mineral sunscreen formulations tend to have a thicker consistency than chemical sunscreens, although more and more lightweight options are available today. Mineral sunscreen also sits on top of the skin, which, when paired with other ingredients in a particular product, may contribute to breakouts in people prone to acne. “Acne-prone or combination skin may benefit from a combination of both mineral and chemical ingredients,” says Ploch. Meanwhile, MacGregor recommends combination sunscreen products with anti-acne additives like lactic acid.
Mineral sunscreens also tend to leave a white film on the skin (thanks to the presence of titanium dioxide and zinc oxide) and need to be applied more frequently than chemical sunscreens, says Ploch.
Still, mineral sunscreens have come a long way over the years, and there are options on the market that won’t leave a white cast on your skin. “Ask an expert and try a few to find one you like,” says MacGregor. She recommends EltaMD, Alastin, and Isdin.
Both chemical and mineral sunscreens can protect you from damaging UV rays, but the best choice varies by skin type and personal needs and preferences.
Chemical sunscreens are quick and easy to apply, but they may cause skin and eye reactions in certain people.
Mineral sunscreens typically leave a white film on your skin and need to be applied more frequently, but they may be safer for long-term use than chemical sunscreens.