Want the perks of a retinoid — smoother, brighter skin — without the pitfalls of redness and irritation? You may need to look no further than bakuchiol, an ingredient first promoted by Korean beauty companies and now used more widely as consumers have become more interested in “clean beauty” products.

Makers of bakuchiol say that it's a gentler, plant-derived alternative to retinoids, the vitamin A-based chemical compounds that help stimulate collagen production for smoother and more radiant skin.

Bakuchiol may work similarly to boost collagen production, says S. Tyler Hollmig, MD, a dermatologist and the director of laser and cosmetic dermatology at the University of Texas at Austin's Dell Medical School. “While more studies are needed, I suspect that bakuchiol may improve skin tone and texture in a similar fashion to over-the-counter retinoids,” such as retinol or adapalene, he says.

Bakuchiol is a chemical compound that most often comes from the seeds of the babchi plant, or Psoralea corylifolia. Practitioners of ayurveda as well as traditional Chinese and Korean medicine use this purple-flowered plant for its medicinal properties.It's a popular addition to skin-care products because it could help promote healthy skin aging.

The evidence for bakuchiol so far seems promising, but as one research review notes, more high-quality research is necessary to prove its efficacy and determine appropriate usage guidelines, particularly in people with skin conditions.

“It's difficult to quantify the exact benefits on skin because studies have either been performed in vitro, meaning not on human skin but in a lab, or have been performed without perfect study design, which makes drawing firm conclusions difficult,” says Dr. Hollmig.

Because the skin-care industry has funded much of the current research on bakuchiol, there's also a risk of bias in this research, he adds.

Slows Aging

Most people use products with bakuchiol to minimize the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines. Oxidative stress and inflammation are two significant factors in skin aging, and industry-sponsored research showed that bakuchiol has both antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, suggesting that it may be an effective anti-aging treatment.One research review found that bakuchiol works in several ways — it showed antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and pro-collagen effects in studies on skin cells in a lab and on human subjects — that could support its use as an effective anti-aging ingredient. The review cites preliminary industry-sponsored clinical trials showing that bakuchiol reduces wrinkles, improves skin elasticity, and stimulates collagen growth. However, additional high-quality, independent trials on larger, more diverse groups of people are needed to confirm these results.

Reduces Signs of Sun Damage

A key source of oxidative stress on skin is sun exposure, which can lead to collagen breakdown and increased signs of aging like hyperpigmentation. A research review found that bakuchiol had similar effectiveness as retinol when it came to reducing the effects of sun damage. The review's author notes, however, that the current research is limited, and that much of the research funding came from companies manufacturing products with bakuchiol.

Soothes Acne

In one company-sponsored study, a topical 0.5 percent bakuchiol cream decreased the number of inflammatory lesions and lessened discoloration from healed acne spots, leading researchers to conclude that bakuchiol may be effective for mild to moderate acne, especially in skin of color.It's important to point out that this study was done on only 13 people over a period of 12 weeks, so more research is needed to fully understand how effective bakuchiol is in treating acne and how it compares with retinoids, which are commonly prescribed to treat mild to moderate acne.

Fights Infection

Bakuchiol may have the potential to fight bacteria and fungi linked to skin infections, rashes, and acne.For instance, one study found that bakuchiol was effective against the infection-causing bacteria Staphylococcus aureus, which is resistant to multiple antibiotics. Another lab-based study suggested that bakuchiol could help fight fungal infections caused by Candida albicans when used alongside garlic, though researchers note that studies in humans are needed to confirm efficacy and determine the therapeutic dosage.

You can find bakuchiol in a wide variety of skin-care products, from serums to toners, says Lauren Penzi, MD, a dermatologist with the Medical Dermatology and Cosmetic Surgery Centers in New York.

Popular options include these formulations:

• Serum This lighter, typically water-based product delivers a fast-absorbing, higher concentration of bakuchiol to your skin.

• Moisturizer Bakuchiol and skin hydration may be a winning combo, since both can help minimize fine lines — you'll usually apply a moisturizer as one of the last steps in your skin-care routine.

• Oil Bakuchiol oil is similar to serum in that it's more highly concentrated, but it's a heavier, more moisturizing product.

• Eye Cream Eye cream with bakuchiol delivers moisture and fine line reduction specifically to this delicate skin.

• Toner Toner is a water-based primer that help prep your skin to better absorb any serums or moisturizers. In addition to bakuchiol, a toner might contain hyaluronic acid, lactic acid, witch hazel, or salicylic acid to smoothen and hydrate your skin.

Most people find that bakuchiol comes with minimal side effects and their skin tolerates it more easily than a retinol or retinoid, says Dr. Penzi.

“As with any natural botanical topical product, there is a risk for irritant or allergic dermatitis, so those with sensitive or eczema-prone skin should exercise caution when starting,” says Penzi. People with rosacea should also start slow due to a small chance of causing flare-ups, she adds.

Signs of side effects could include the following:

• Irritation If you have sensitive skin, there's a small chance that you might experience redness and peeling when starting bakuchiol, though this side effect may be rare since bakuchiol also reduces inflammation.

• Itching While this is rare, there are a couple of reports of people developing itchy skin while using bakuchiol. While one person had no history of skin issues, the other had a history of eczema.

If you have an allergic reaction to bakuchiol, it's possible that you might experience other symptoms of skin sensitivities or allergies, such as stinging, flaking, or developing bumps.

Does Bakuchiol React With Other Ingredients?

Bakuchiol doesn't have any known negative interactions with other skin-care ingredients, Penzi says. “It pairs nicely with hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, ceramides, peptides, and even retinols and exfoliants,” she adds.

While some consumers may turn to retinoid alternatives during pregnancy, Hollmig says that it's impossible to know whether bakuchiol is a safe choice, as there have not been any clinical trials concerning this issue.

A review suggests that bakuchiol could be a safer option than retinoids during pregnancy and breastfeeding. Still, since no quality research exists on bakuchiol's safety in pregnancy, it's best to exercise caution.

Talk to your ob-gyn if you're pregnant and considering using a bakuchiol product.

Retinol is a less potent, over-the-counter version of prescription retinoids, which people use to reduce the effects of aging. While bakuchiol is a popular retinol alternative, some people may still prefer retinoids, especially if they're looking for proven, reliable results.Keep in mind that one review of research on anti-aging skin-care ingredients rated retinol as more effective than bakuchiol.Some evidence suggests that bakuchiol could be as effective as retinol at minimizing signs of aging without the side effects. However, there's more research backing the efficacy of retinol and retinoids.

If you want the age-defying benefits of retinoids with chances of fewer side effects, then bakuchiol could be for you. Here, we've laid out exactly how to incorporate bakuchiol into your skin-care routine.

When to Use Bakuchiol

Bakuchiol doesn't make your skin sensitive to sunlight, so you can use it morning or night, says Penzi. She recommends applying bakuchiol after a gentle cleanser. If you're using a bakuchiol serum, apply that and follow it up with a moisturizer or night cream of your choice.

If you're applying bakuchiol in the morning, remember to apply sunscreen as the last step of your morning skin-care routine, she adds.

How Often Should You Use Bakuchiol?

Penzi suggests doing an at-home patch test to check for potential irritation when trying a new bakuchiol product. Start by applying a small amount to your inner forearm for two or three nights in a row. “If no reaction occurs, then you should feel comfortable to start using the product on your face,” she says.

It can also be a good idea to introduce a new bakuchiol product into your skin-care routine gradually to avoid irritation. Consider starting with a lower concentration of bakuchiol, introducing it two or three nights per week and working your way up to every day from there, says Penzi.

• Bakuchiol could be a gentler way to reduce the appearance of fine lines, improve skin tone, and even help with acne if retinoids are too harsh for your skin.

• You'll usually find bakuchiol in serums and eye creams, but it's also an ingredient in moisturizers, oils, and cleansers.

• Research on bakuchiol is still evolving, and its safety has not been proven for use in pregnant women.

• Always introduce new skin-care products gradually to see how your skin responds.